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30/05/07 - What's new? At the bottom of the page you will find details on tools and vehicle spares that I feel are required for a trip like this.
Planning so far has taken in the region of 18 months to 2 years. You can probably do it quicker than this but with the amount of research you have (and need) to do I wouldn't recommend it.
Vehicle Choice
Basically you need to decide whether you want to go in Toyota or a Landy. I'm not going to go into detail on this because it is a personal choice thing. Tom Sheppard and Chris Scott have some good advice so I recommend that you read what they have to say.
We're doing in a Landy because that is the vehicle I have always wanted to use. There are some down sides to this. However, for me the upsides out weigh them so I'm happy.
Vehicle Mods
There are so many things you can add to your vehicle that it is sometimes very hard to decide between what are gimmicks and what are essentials. The best way to do this is to read other people’s websites, overland books and also to look at your own budget.
For me I put modifications such as tyre and suspension choice, braking system, engine condition and maintenance and safety first. I prioritised the purchase and fitting of these items and then worked down and if I had money left I would buy the items that I felt were 50/50 on the list. For example, I have made the decision not to take an electric winch. I spoke at length to Foleys, I looked at the expense, the weight it adds and also the false sense of security it can give you (they can make you feel invincible) and decided not to get one. I have got a hi-lift jack, sand ladders, waffle boards, a bottle jack and lots of strops, chains and snatch blocks and plan to use these in an emergency. I hope that I won't be made to regret the decision but at the moment I am happy with it.
The same goes with under body protection. On the vehicle mods page I have outlined what we have taken. However, the key to overlanding is to keep the vehicle weight down so you do need to think long and hard about all the under body stuff you might add.
Whatever you decide to do I suggest you do it a reasonable time before you go. You must make sure that you are completely comfortable with the vehicle and all the kit you are taking before you go. Even to the extent of doing a trial run. This is not totally practical for all. However, due to my long summer hols I was able to take the vehicle to France last year for a months camping. This really proved invaluable in getting used to the tent and all the little nuances of the vehicle. For example I now know that I can drive 300 –340 kms and the fuel gauge drops to half full. However, I can then only get another 160 – 200kms before it is empty. This might not sound important but I’m pretty happy that I know that now and not find it out once I’m in the Sahara!!
Paperwork
This is something that you will be doing a lot of. Basically it breaks down into 2 areas. Paperwork for you and paperwork for the vehicle. I'll deal with the vehicle first.
Carnet Du Passage
Become comfortable with the above because it will start to control your life. Without one you won't go. It is basically a passport for the vehicle that allows you to temporarily import and export it from multiple countries without paying tax. Sounds simply enough doesn't it? The problem comes in when you realise that you have to provide the RAC (The only issuing body in the UK) financial guarantee for the vehicle, which, should you break the t's and c's of the carnet, they will take from you. Again sounds simple. However, if you go to Egypt you have to provide a guarantee for 800% of the vehicle value. So if you vehicle is valued at £5000 x 800% = £40,000 that you have to give to the RAC. I'm not sure how many people have this sort of money lying around, but I certainly didn't!
There are 3 ways you can do it:
1) If the amount you are required to provide is less than 10K you can give the RAC a cash deposit.
2) RL Davison will provide you with an insurance indemnity for the amount. However, they charge 10% of amount required, then 5% insurance tax on that amount. I was looking at having to pay them in the region of 4.5k to provide the indemnity. You do get half back but it is still very expensive.
3) Bank Guarantee. I wouldn't recommend speaking to your high street branch. I went into mine and was told in no uncertain terms by the manager that this is not something they do, they never have, never would and he had never heard of it happening at any other bank. It turns out they have a whole department dealing with this sort of thing! Says a lot about the bank if they don't even know what services they can provide. Anyway, all I can suggest here is perseverance. Don't give up; most of the people I spoke to simply didn't understand what I wanted so they just said no. After many phone calls and several visits I finally found the person to speak to and now everything is sorted. The cost of this has been about £150, so pretty bloody good if you ask me.
The RAC (www.rac.co.uk - click on the going on a journey section) are the only people in the UK that issue them. There is loads of information on their website and the guy to speak to there is Paul Gowen on 01454 208304. He is really helpful and will be able to help you with bank guarantee if all else fails. It takes a month to get one issued. However, I have being dealing with the bank now for 6 weeks regarding the guarantee and you need it before the Carnet will be issued so make sure you leave enough time to get it.
Visas
I was really worried about this but it turns that it's not too difficult. Below is a list of the countires we are visting and whether or not we need a visa.
Before you start to read through this don’t panic if you are worried about how you will fit it all in. When you lay in out on your garage floor it looks enormous, but when you think about it and pack carefully you’ll be amazed at how much space you generate.
I used wolf boxes (www.scorpionracing.co.uk) for most of my packing. They are excellent and very robust. I used one of these to keep all my service items in, e.g. filter, grease gun, glues, sealants, fluids (except engine oil, it’s too bulky) and other miscellaneous spares. This fitted in perfectly and didn’t’ take up too much space.
I fitted the mobile storage systems store draw and chest. These aren’t cheap and are heavy. However, I think they are excellent. They key to packing is to compartmentalise everything and this really helps you to do that.
In the store chest at the back I kept all my spares. The rational behind this was that although I had to get everything out to get to them, if I did need them then I probably wasn’t going anywhere fast anyway! I also kept the drill and grinder in here. When packing this be aware that in your water and fuel pump boxes there is a lot of wasted space. This can be filled with lots of other smaller items. Just don’t forget they are in there. Any other space in this chest was filled with items that weren’t going to be accessed very often.
In the store drawer I kept my recovery equipment so it could be got to quickly. Also in there was the spanners and sockets, and general tools, along with the axe and fold-up shovel. This then left a lot of space that could be used for tinned food.
You will actually find that nearly everything you might need can be got in Africa. Certainly once you reach Southern Africa and enter the world of AutoZone and Midas Spares you will be able to get anything you want in the big towns.
We never struggled to get things like filters and spare oils so maybe you might not want to take them with you to save space and money. However, although you can get this stuff anywhere if you have a problem in the middle of nowhere and need it, you’ll wish you had brought it. Parts are quite expensive in Africa but the labour is very cheap.
Some good garages along the way:
Ultimate Motors, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
CMC Nairobi, Kenya
CMC Mbeya, Tanzania
Foley Africa, Livingstone, Zambia
Lesedi Motors, Maun, Botswana
Or you could ask in the Buck and Hunter for Crispin. He’s an independent LR mechanic and is very good. Everyone knows him.
East Side Services, Windhoek, Namibia.
General tools
• Mallet
• Crowbar
• Screwdrivers, 2x long flat and Philips, 2x short flat and Philips
• Stanley knife
• Pliers, long and short nosed
• Junior hacksaw?
• Small drill
• Small angle grinder + discs
• Assortment of drill bits + hole enlarging bit
• Metal file
• Tape measure
• Long thin magnet (use to get out wheel bearings and rescuing things that fall into the engine bay
• Set of spanners (essential)
• Socket set, including extra long breaker bar and extra long sockets. Needs to be half inch. (essential)
• Axe
• Saw
• Shovel / spade
• Allen keys
• Big adjustable wrench
Landrover / service specific tools
• Correct gearbox socket (e.g. torx socket for R380 gearbox)
• 30mm spanner of socket for radius arm chassis end bolts
• 24mm socket for radius / trailing arms bolts
• Prop shaft nut socket (available from www.difflock.com and makes life so much easier)
• Grease-gun
• Oil filter removal tool
• Something that can be used to re-fill diffs and transfer box with oil. (The Halfords EP90 bottle works very well here and can be re-filled.)
• Hub spanner
• Fan belt nut spanner
Miscellaneous spares / tools
• Bostick liquid gasket (essential)
• Bostick general white sealant
• Cable ties
• Fuel tank hole repair putty
• Multi-purpose glue
• Assortment of jubilee clips
• Assortment of different nuts, bolts and washers, especially for things like shocks etc
• Locktite thread glue
• Spare in-line filters should you have aux tanks fitted
• Electrical tape
• Duct tape (essential)
• Hose repair tape
• Gloves?
• Overalls?
• Workshop manuals
• String
Recovery equipment
• 8 – 10m tow rope, the strongest around
• Hi-lift
• Hi-lift base plate (essential)
• Hi-lift adaptor
• Bottle jack
• Waffle boards
• 2 x 5 tonne ‘d’ rings
• 2 x 3.5 tonne ‘d’ rings
• 1 x snatch block
• 2 x strops
• Spade
• saw
Spares kit
Split into mechanical / vehicle spares, electrical, tyres and fluids
• Brake pads all round
• Master and slave clutch kit
• Air filter (start with these, but can be got almost anywhere)
• Fuel filter (start with these, but can be got almost anywhere)
• Oil filter (start with these, but can be got almost anywhere)
• Radius arm bushes
• Trailing arm bushes
• Pan-hard rod bushes
• Shock absorber bushes
• Oil cap
• Fuel cap
• Radiator cap / bolt
• Sump plug
• 2 x UJs
• 2 x Wheel bearings
• 2 x hub nuts
• 2 x lock washers for hubs
• 2 x Pinion seals
• 2 x transfer box to prop shaft oil seals
• 2 x hub oil seals
• Fuel pump
• Water pump
• Bulbs
• Drive belt
• Air-con belt (if required)
• Drive-belt pulley bearing
• Wing mirror glass
• 1 x white and 1 x red light assembly
• 2 x dust cap
Fuel & Oil Checklist
• 2x5 litre15W40 Engine Oil
• 1 litre Break/Clutch fluid (DOT4)
• 3 litres of Gearbox Oil
• EP90, used in diffs and transfer box
• Injector Cleaner
• Grease, with gun
• Silicon grease for locks
• WD40 - never travel without it....
Tyres
• Set of locking nuts
• Vehicle wheel-nut spanner and a spare socket.
• 2 Tyre Irons (big ones)
• 2 x Tubeless tyre repair plug kits – Make sure you practice before you set out.
• Assorted Tubeless patches and adhesive
• Abrasive pad or paper to prepare surfaces of tubeless tyres for patches
• 2 x Inner Tubes (use in tubeless tyres in an emergency)
• Tube repair kit, including patches and adhesives
• Air compressor (I used a cheapo draper one and it was fine, there are very expensive ones out there. It’s up to you)
Electrical spares
• Multimeter
• Electrical tape
• Lots of fuses
• Spare in-line fuse holders
• Several m’s of different electrical wire
• Jump leads
• Assortment of electrical connectors and crimping tool
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